Tire Sidewalls reveal a lot of useful information
molded into the sidewall of a tire. It shows the name
of the tire, its size, whether it is tubeless or tube
type, the tire grade, speed rating, maximum load,
maximum inflation, an important safety warning,etc.
Example:
P215/65R15 89H "P" means this is a passenger
car tire (as opposed to a tire made for a truck or
other vehicle).
P-metric is the U.S. version of a metric tire-sizing
system.
“LT” would signify a light truck
tire.
“ST” Standard Trailer.
"215" is the section width - the width of
the tire in millimeters from sidewall to sidewall.
This measurement varies depending on the width of
the rim to which the tire is fitted: larger on a wider
rim, smaller on a narrow rim. The number on the side
of tire indicates the width measured with the tire
fitted to the recommended rim width. "65" represents
the aspect ratio. This is the ratio of height to width.
This tire's height is 65% of its width. "R" stands
for how the plies are constructed in the tire carcass.
"R" means radial.
"B" in place of the "R" means the tire is
belted bias construction. "D" in place of the "R"
means diagonal bias construction.
"15" is the rim diameter, which is the diameter
of the wheel in inches.
"89" indicates the load index.
Tire
Warehouse Brake Service Maximizes Brake Performance
and Safety.
Your vehicle's brake system uses a master cylinder,
calipers and or wheel cylinders and a net-work of
hoses and steel lines to hold the system's life blood
-- brake fluid -- under pressure, it is this fluid
pressure that makes modern braking systems so reliable
and safe .
When you step on the brake pedal, the master cylinder
transmits the force from your foot pressure to the
brake fluid in the hoses and lines. In turn, the pressurized
brake fluid pushes the wheel cylinders on drum brakes
or calipers on disc brakes. This movement of fluid
causes the internal parts of the wheel cylinder or
caliper to move outward, pushing the brake shoes or
disc pads against the brake rotor or drum . The contact
between these parts causes friction (heat) which brings
your car to a controlled stop.
To make sure your system stays reliable, it's crucial
that you have your vehicle's brakes inspect-ed periodically.
And, it is equally important to make sure it is a
complete inspection, performed by a trained technician.
Unfortunately, wear on brake shoes and pads is the
only wear that's easily visible, so the rest of the
brake system's components can be overlooked or ignored
until it is too late.
When it comes to brake pad/shoe replacement, we use
Raybesto's premium pads; ceramic when applicable -
which stop quicker, quieter & with less brake
distance.
We also use Pro Cut on the vehicle brake lathe -
to ensure smooth stopping.
| Alignments
with Hunter & Quality
Mous Parts |
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A wheel alignment
consists of adjusting the wheels to maximize tread
life and ensure that your vehicle tracks straight.
Proper alignment is necessary for even tread wear
and precise steering. Many vehicles today are equipped
with rear suspensions that can be adjusted for alignment.
Wheel alignments and related components should be
checked every 10,000 miles or once a year. .
What is it? Essentially, alignment refers
to the way your car's wheels are positioned. Ideally,
your wheels should be parallel and facing forward.
How does it work? When your wheels are properly aligned,
you'll get better gas mileage; your tires will last
longer; steering will be easier; your ride will be
smoother; and, most importantly, the drive will be
safer. How could it go wrong? Everything from age
to components wearing out to a bump in the road can
cause your wheels to shift out of alignment. This
could result in one of three different problems:
Camber : The wheels are tilted, either inward
or outward. This will create pulling and tire wear.
Toe A change in the distance between the front and
back of the front or rear tires. This will wear on
the tires, too.
Caster: A backward or forward tilt at the top
of the wheel's spindle support arm. This will cause
either loose or difficult steering. If any of these
problems develop, they will begin to take their toll
on your car's tires and performance, as well as steering
manageability.
Toe: A change in the distance between the front
and back of the front or rear tires.
This will wear on the tires, too.
How do you recognize a problem?
Several ways: is your steering wheel straight when
you are driving? Does your car pull to one side? Does
your steering wheel vibrate? Do you notice uneven
tire wear? Does your steering feel loose, or is it
difficult to control? Does your vehicle nose turn
while braking or accelerate? If you recognize any
of these symptoms, call for an appointment.
We
use Monroe Shocks & Struts that carry a lifetime
warranty on parts.
Shock absorbers and struts are designed to keep
the wheels in contact with the road, improving cornering
and braking. Though original equipment shocks have
improved in recent years, many are ready for replacement
in as few as 30,000 miles. Most people do not notice
the gradual deterioration in ride quality and many
shocks and struts are not replaced as often as they
should be. Shocks and struts should be checked every
12,000 miles or when any of these symptoms are noticed:
bouncy or uncomfortable ride excessive body sway when
cornering fluid leaks from the shock or strut physical
damage to the shock or strut nose dive when braking
uneven tire wear tail squat when accelerating.
We use Monroe Shocks & Struts that carry a lifetime
warranty on parts.
We are now carrying Interstate
Batteries. When Interstate Batteries began
in Dallas, Texas in November of 1952, our outstanding
level of service and quality product made us unique.
Today Interstate's excellent product and outstanding
level of service remains our edge. Have your battery
checked often. Don't set the standard.
Buying A Used Car? Have
us inspect it before you buy it.
Whether you buy a used car from a dealer or an individual,
follow these tips to learn as much as you can about
the vehicle.
· Examine the car yourself
using an inspection checklist. You can find a checklist
in many of the magazine articles, books and Internet
sites that deal with buying a used car.
· Test drive the car under varied road
conditions—on hills, highways, and in stop-and-go
traffic.
· Ask for the car’s maintenance
record. If the owner doesn’t have copies, contact
the dealership or repair shop where most of the work
was done. They may share their files with you.
· Talk to the previous owner, especially
if the present owner is unfamiliar with the car’s
history.
· There are no standard operating procedures
for pre-purchase inspections. Ask what the inspection
includes, how long it takes, and the price.Once the
vehicle has been inspected, ask the mechanic for a
written report with a cost estimate for all necessary
repairs. Be sure the report includes the vehicle’s
make, model and VIN. Make sure you understand every
item. If you decide to make a purchase offer to the
dealer after considering the inspection’s results,
you can use the estimated repair costs to negotiate
the price of the vehicle.
